How to Choose the Right Kashmiri Kaftan Size When Shopping Online
Size is the main reason clothes bought online get sent back. With kaftans there is an extra twist: many are sold as free size, so there is no size chart to check, and people assume there is nothing to check at all. There is. A kaftan that is too narrow stops being a kaftan and becomes a tight tunic. One that is too long becomes something you hold up with one hand all evening.
This guide shows you how to work out, before ordering, whether a particular kaftan will fit you, using three measurements and about five minutes.
Why kaftan sizing works differently
A fitted kurta has to match your shoulders, bust, waist and hips. A kaftan only really has two dimensions that matter: how wide it is and how long it is. It has no shoulder seam to sit in the right place and no waist to land at the right height. That is why one size can suit many bodies, and also why the two numbers that do matter, matter a lot.
What free size actually means
Free size means the maker produces the garment in a single generous size. It does not mean the garment has no limits. Every free size kaftan has:
- an upper limit, the largest bust and hip it will hang loosely over, and
- a lower limit, below which there is so much spare fabric that it overwhelms a small frame.
A good listing tells you the garment measurements so you can see where you fall. If it does not, ask. Any seller with the garment in hand can measure it in a minute.
Step 1: Take three body measurements
Use a soft tape. Measure over the kind of underclothes you would wear with the kaftan. Keep the tape level and snug, not tight.
- Bust. Around the fullest part of your chest.
- Hip. Around the fullest part of your hips and seat. This matters for kaftans that are stitched down the sides, and for anyone whose hips are wider than their bust.
- Shoulder to floor. Stand straight, barefoot. Measure from the highest point of your shoulder, where a shoulder seam would sit next to your neck, straight down the front to the floor. A second person makes this much easier.
Write them down. You will use them for every kaftan, kurta and pheran you buy from now on.
Step 2: Understand ease
Ease is the difference between your body measurement and the garment measurement. It is what makes loose clothing loose.
| Garment chest compared with your bust | How it will look |
|---|---|
| Same, or up to 2 inches more | Fitted. Not a kaftan fit. Will pull across the chest |
| About 4 to 6 inches more | Relaxed, like a loose kurta |
| About 8 to 12 inches more | A proper easy kaftan drape |
| More than that | Very flowing. Lovely on taller or broader frames, can swamp a petite one unless the fabric is very light |
These are guide figures. Light, fluid fabrics such as chiffon and rayon can carry a lot of ease gracefully because they collapse against the body. Crisper cotton holds its shape, so the same ease looks bigger.
Whichever is larger, your bust or your hip, use that number for the comparison.
Step 3: Read the garment measurements correctly
Flat width is half the story, literally
Sellers often measure a garment laid flat, from one side to the other just below the armhole. That is the flat width. The garment chest is twice that number. A kaftan that measures 25 inches across when laid flat is 50 inches around. People regularly misread this and think a garment is far too small.
What does the number on a Kashmiri garment mean?
Kashmiri clothing is often labelled with a plain number. That number may be the garment's chest in inches, the garment's length in inches, or a trade size used by the workshop. It differs between makers and even between product lines from the same maker. It is rarely the same thing as a high street size.
So do not guess. Ask the seller one specific question: what is the chest measurement all the way around, and what is the length from shoulder to hem, in inches, of this exact piece? Two numbers, no ambiguity.
The best trick: measure something you already own
Take a loose kurta, kaftan or nightdress that you like the fit of. Lay it flat, smooth it out, and measure:
- straight across just under the armholes, then double it, and
- from the highest point of the shoulder to the hem.
Now you have the measurements of a fit you already know you like. Compare any online listing to those, rather than to your body. This is more reliable than any size chart.
Step 4: Get the length right for your height
Width is forgiving. Length is not. The same long kaftan is ankle length on one woman and floor sweeping on another.
Use your shoulder to floor measurement:
| Where you want it to end | Garment length to look for |
|---|---|
| Ankle length, the classic long kaftan | Your shoulder to floor measurement, minus about 3 to 4 inches |
| Just above the ankle, easier for walking and stairs | Minus about 5 to 6 inches |
| Mid calf | Minus about 10 to 12 inches |
| Knee length | Roughly 38 to 42 inches for most women |
| Short kaftan worn as a top | Roughly 26 to 32 inches, ending between the hip and mid thigh |
If you have not measured yet, this table gives a rough idea of shoulder to floor by height. Bodies vary, so treat it as a starting point and measure when you can.
| Height | Approximate shoulder to floor | Ankle length kaftan would be about |
|---|---|---|
| 5 ft 0 in | 50 to 51 inches | 47 inches |
| 5 ft 2 in | 52 to 53 inches | 49 inches |
| 5 ft 4 in | 54 to 55 inches | 51 inches |
| 5 ft 6 in | 56 to 57 inches | 53 inches |
| 5 ft 8 in | 57 to 58 inches | 54 inches |
Remember footwear. Heels give you back an inch or two. Flats do not.
If it is too long
A plain hem is easy to take up. Any tailor can do it in minutes. A hem with an embroidered border is a different matter: shortening from the bottom cuts off the embroidery. In that case the length has to be right when you buy, or the adjustment has to be made higher up, which is a bigger job. Check where the embroidery is before assuming you can alter it.
Other fit points worth a look
- Neck depth. A deep V on a loose garment can shift and gape. If the photos are all flat lays, ask for one on a person or a mannequin, or ask for the neck depth in inches from the shoulder point.
- Armhole and side seam. Check how far down the side is left open. A very deep opening shows the side of the body and means you will want something underneath.
- Sleeve length. On a true kaftan cut this is simply decided by the width of the garment. Wider garment, longer sleeve.
- Slit height. On long kaftans, slits that reach the knee or higher call for trousers or leggings.
Fit advice by body type
Petite, around 5 ft 2 in and under
Short and knee length kaftans are the easy wins. For long kaftans, check the length carefully and favour light, fluid fabrics and a V neckline, which lengthens the line. Avoid very wide cuts in stiff cotton.
Tall, around 5 ft 7 in and over
Most long kaftans will sit above your ankle. That is a perfectly good look, but if you want true ankle length, confirm the garment length before ordering.
Fuller bust or hips
Go by your largest measurement and make sure there is genuine ease over it, 8 inches or more if you want it to drape rather than cling. Kaftans that are open down the sides are more forgiving than ones stitched closed.
Pregnancy and nursing
Kaftans are popular for good reason. Look for plenty of ease at the bump, a front opening or a deep enough neckline if you are nursing, and breathable cotton.
If you dislike a tent shape
Look for an inner drawstring or ties, or add a belt. A thin belt over a kaftan changes the silhouette completely and takes ten seconds.
Kaftan sets: check the bottom too
For sets with a trouser or palazzo, ask for the waist measurement, relaxed and fully stretched if it is elasticated, and the length of the bottom. Elastic and drawstring waists cover a wide range, but the length still has to suit your height.
How sizing works on our kaftans
Our short kaftans are sold as free size. Long kaftans and sets show the size for that piece on the product page. Because these come from different workshops, we would rather give you real numbers than a generic chart: message us the name of the kaftan on WhatsApp, along with your bust measurement and height, and we will measure the actual garment and tell you honestly how it will sit on you, including if we think it will not work.
If it does not fit when it arrives, keep the tags on and see our returns and exchange policy for clothing.
You can browse short kaftans, long kaftans and kaftan sets. If you are still deciding on fabric and style, go back to the main guide: how to choose a Kashmiri kaftan online.
Quick checklist
- I know my bust, hip and shoulder to floor measurements.
- I know the garment's chest all the way around, not just its flat width.
- The garment chest is comfortably larger than my largest measurement.
- I know the garment length and where that will end on me.
- I have checked whether the hem can be altered.
- I know the return or exchange terms.
Common questions
Does free size fit plus sizes?
Sometimes. It depends entirely on the garment chest measurement. Compare it with your largest measurement and look for real ease on top. Do not rely on the words free size alone.
I am between sizes. Should I go up or down?
With kaftans, go up. Extra width drapes. Too little width pulls and cannot be fixed.
Will cotton kaftans shrink?
Cotton and rayon can shrink slightly in the first wash, mostly in length. Wash cold and dry in shade. If the length is already borderline short on you, choose the longer option.
Can a kaftan be altered?
Sides can usually be taken in, and plain hems shortened. Letting out is rarely possible, and embroidered hems cannot be shortened without losing the border.
How should a kaftan fit at the shoulders?
It does not need to. A kaftan has no fixed shoulder point. The fabric should simply fall from the neck over the shoulder and down the arm.