Jali — the lattice, not the blanket

Jali means a lattice or screen. On a stole it describes an open, continuous vine that travels across the whole cloth in loops and curls, leaving the ground clearly visible between the stems. It is not the same as a jama, where the embroidery fills the field solidly and the base almost disappears.

That difference is the reason to choose one over the other. A jama piece is a statement and priced like one. A jali piece gives you the same continuous, all-over movement across the cloth at a fraction of the work — and because the ground keeps showing through, the colour of the stole stays part of the design rather than being buried under thread.

Three grounds, three different moods

How to wear it

Looking after an open design

Embroidered Tusha is not a wash-and-wear textile. Water and detergent loosen the threadwork, and on a strong ground colour any dye that runs settles straight into the pale vines and flowers. Dry clean only — no washing at home, no wringing, no bleach.

One thing worth knowing about jali specifically: because the stems sit proud of an otherwise open surface, they catch on jewellery, watch straps and bag zips more easily than a dense design would. Fold it along the existing folds, keep it wrapped in cotton or muslin rather than plastic, and keep a natural moth repellent nearby.